How to Care for Tussar Silk: A Complete Guide

Tussar silk has a personality unlike any other fabric. It is textured where mulberry silk is smooth, earthy where it might otherwise be luminous, and quietly confident in the way only wild things can be. Caring for it takes a little knowledge — but once you know what Tussar needs, it rewards you with decades of wear.

What is Tussar Silk?

Tussar (also spelled Tassar or Kosa) is a wild silk produced by silkworms — primarily Antheraea mylitta — that feed on leaves of trees like Arjun and Asan in the forests of Jharkhand, West Bengal, Chhattisgarh, and Odisha. Unlike cultivated mulberry silk, Tussar is non-mulberry: the worms spin their cocoons in the wild, and the resulting fibre has a naturally coarser texture, a distinctive golden-beige colour, and a matte, earthy lustre.

Because Tussar is produced by wild silkworms with minimal human intervention, it is considered one of the more sustainable silk varieties.

How to Clean Tussar Silk

Dry cleaning — what we recommend

For every Tussar piece, we recommend professional dry cleaning.

The reason lies in the fibre itself. Tussar's yarn is thicker and more uneven than mulberry silk, and it absorbs water unevenly. That is what gives Tussar its beautiful slubbed texture — and it is also why water can leave faint rings or patches that do not disappear once the fabric dries. Dry cleaning uses solvent rather than water, so the weave keeps its natural crispness and body.

Dry cleaning is especially important for:

• Sarees and any full-length drape
• Anything with zari, embroidery, or embellishment
• The first clean of any new piece, whatever it is

When you hand it over, tell your dry cleaner it is Tussar silk, not mulberry silk. The two behave differently, and pressing temperatures should be adjusted accordingly.

Washing at home — only if truly necessary

If a piece is plain, unembellished, and you would rather wash it yourself, it can be done — carefully. This applies to simple stoles, dupattas, and unlined pieces without zari. Please do not hand wash a saree or an embellished piece.

The golden rule: always use cold water. Heat is Tussar's main adversary — it causes the fibre to stiffen, shrink, or lose its texture.

1. Fill a basin with cold water. Never hot, and never warm.
2. Add a small amount of gentle, pH-neutral detergent or a dedicated silk wash. Avoid anything with enzymes, bleach, or brightening agents.
3. Submerge the piece and swirl gently for no more than three to five minutes. Do not soak, rub, wring, or scrub.
4. Rinse thoroughly in cold water until the water runs clear.
5. Lift the piece out supporting its full weight — never hold it from one corner while wet.

Wash Tussar on its own, never with other garments.

A note on shrinkage: handloom Tussar may shrink slightly — around 2 to 3 percent — after its first wash, as the yarn relaxes. This is a characteristic of handwoven fabric, not a fault.

Please avoid machine washing. Even a delicate cycle agitates enough to distort a handloom weave, and the spin cycle sets creases that will not press out.

Drying Tussar Silk

Never wring Tussar. Gently press out excess water between two clean towels, then lay flat or hang on a padded hanger in the shade. Keep Tussar away from direct sunlight while drying — prolonged UV exposure can fade natural dyes.

Ironing Tussar Silk

Iron on the reverse side, on dry fabric, using a medium heat setting with a thin cotton press cloth between the iron and the fabric. Do not iron Tussar while damp and do not apply steam directly — both can leave water marks on the surface.

Storing Tussar Silk

• Fold with acid-free tissue paper between the layers. Ordinary paper and card release acids over time that yellow silk and weaken the fibre.
• Store in a cool, dry, dark place in breathable cotton or muslin bags — never plastic, which traps moisture.
• Refold every few months along different lines to avoid permanent crease marks.
• Keep neem leaves or a cedar block near the fabric to deter moths, but never in direct contact — cedar oil can stain silk.
• Let a piece air out fully before storing it, and apply perfume or deodorant before dressing, not after. Alcohol marks silk permanently.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Hot water washing — causes stiffening and shrinkage.
• Machine washing — distorts a handloom weave, however gentle the cycle.
• Harsh detergents — strip natural oils from the fibre, dulling the lustre.
• Wringing the fabric — distorts the weave and causes permanent creasing.
• Direct sunlight drying — fades natural dyes faster.
• Ironing while damp — leaves water marks on Tussar's textured surface.

What About Colour Bleeding?

Tussar pieces with natural dyes may release a small amount of colour in the first one or two washes. This is normal and is a sign of genuine natural dyeing. It is one more reason we recommend dry cleaning the first time. If you are washing at home, keep dark and light pieces entirely separate and always use cold water.

Explore Our Tussar Collection

Our Tussar silk collection features handwoven pieces crafted in traditional weaving clusters across eastern India. From naturally dyed dupattas to richly textured sarees, each piece is a testament to the forest, the silkworm, and the weaver's hand.

Shop our Tussar Collection →